Monday, November 02, 2009

I am the egg man (Aldo Buzzi remix)

One perk of working from home is the opportunity to cook your own breakfast at a sociable hour – in my case, one that might more properly be described as brunch-time. Eggs – they make you strong, apparently – have been a fixture, so I was pleased to stumble across a new but essentially foolproof recipe in an old review paperback.

Despite endorsements from David Furnish and Simon Cowell, Mr Jones' Rules (a how-to guide 'for the modern man' from the suitably ovoid headspace of GQ editor Dylan Jones) is an amusing and not particularly smug or prissy read. The section on food and drink is home to some pleasingly eccentric finds, among them a fried egg recipe from a treatise on cooking by the late Italian polymath Aldo Buzzi.

Like so many great recipes, it's the finer details that make it. You must crack the egg into a cup, then add the white to a pan on a low heat. Season this, then add the yolk carefully to its centre. When it's almost cooked, add a lid to the pan and lightly firm the top of the yolk. Transfer the result to a warm plate.

Jones adds a few tips of his own. Toast should be served on the side, rather than under the egg; use a duck egg (bigger, if surprisingly hard to come by given Hale and Hearty has rolling countryside south to Stoke and west to Chester); only cook one of them.

You're a modern man, remember, so there's a beer in it for you, too. In keeping with the Italian theme, I'd suggest the elegant attire and gluggable heft (6.6%) of Peroni's Gran Reserva. After that, you'll probably be ready to forget the work and take up another of Jones's serving suggestions, watching sport on TV. Just don't blame me if Sky Sports News fails to sustain the glamour of la dolce vita.

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