Having occupied the same site on the corner of Borough and Massey Roads since 1901, its hours are unfashionably traditional – lunchtimes only Monday to Friday, plus a short evening service on Friday itself – and its fare deviates little from the classic model.
Vimto is touted in the other window, but not in the cutesy off-the-peg style of a thousand theme pubs. Partly concealed, the impression is that these banners remain simply because no one has seen fit to remove them when there's serious frying to be done. And Joanne's serves up pretty good stuff, too.
Those opening times mean it helps if you're a schoolkid, work locally or otherwise spend your days in or around the terraces near Stamford Park. But when did a properly good deal ever come without a bit of effort?